Genderless: vestir sin sexo

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Entrar en una tienda, poner la directa hacia la sección “femenina” o “masculina” y rebuscar entre perchas y estanterías por un jersey, una falda o un complemento “para mujer” o “para hombre”. Una rutina que, sin apenas darnos cuenta, limita nuestra capacidad de elección a una conjunto de prendas pensadas para uno u otro género, como si aquellas de la sección contraria fueran inapropiadas o, sencillamente, inconcebibles en tu armario. Hasta ahora.

Para la muestra, un botón. En el corazón de una capital trendsetter por excelencia – sí, la transgresora y multicultural, creativa y extrovertida – Londres, se encuentra Selfridges, considerado el mejor centro comercial de diseño y moda. Pisos y más pisos llenos de lo último en complementos, accesorios y ropa, de las marcas más codiciadas e, incluso, de algunas de las más accesibles (el apartado “Urban” reúne una cuidada selección de ropa low-cost de etiquetas como H&M, Topshop o Primark, entre otras), hacen de este department store en Oxford Street el epicentro de los amantes de la moda.

Louis Vuitton SS 2016 con Jayden Smith / Foto: Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton SS 2016 con Jayden Smith / Foto: Louis Vuitton

Pues bien, Selfridges anunció el año pasado la abertura de tres pisos dedicados enteramente a la ropa neutra, la que puede ser vestida tanto por él como por ella, la que no tiene género y vive en su más rotunda libertad. Sin prejuicios. Sin que ser hombre o mujer pueda afectar la decisión de qué te gustaría vestir. ¿Lo único que importa? Que te sienta bien, que estés a gusto y que, en definitiva, al mirarte al espejo exclames aquello de “¡qué guapo/a estoy con esto!”.

Uno de los portavoces del centro comercial lo definía de la siguiente manera: “Agender no es la respuesta a una ‘tendencia’” sino que “encuentra respuesta a un cambio de pensamiento y de mentalidad que está ocurriendo ahora”. Y este viraje en lo que entendemos por moda y en cómo la hemos medido hasta ahora, basándonos en siluetas y estilos de hombre o mujer, es lo que se conoce como el fenómeno genderless. O moda neutra. O moda asexual. También conocida como unisex.

Adiós a aquello de “pareces un chico-chica”, porque genderless es la superación del concepto “mujer tomboy” o del de “hombre travestido”. Si él quiere llevar bolso, es libre de hacerlo. Si ella quiere lucir una capa que no realce sus formas femeninas, no por ello perderá sensualidad. Los dos valores en alza que pone de manifiesto el fenómeno genderless son básicamente la libertad y la actitud.

La marca coreana Ader Error / Fotos: Ader Error

La marca coreana Ader Error / Fotos: Ader Error

La actitud es lo que hará que esa prenda sin sexo resulte femenina o masculina. Son propuestas y diseños que encajan tanto en el armario de un hombre como en el de una mujer, en tanto que todo depende de la confianza con la que se vistan. Xavi García, uno de los pioneros en traer el fenómeno genderless al mercado de la moda español – apúntatelo y búscalo en 44Store – explica que “nunca he entendido esa diferencia” entre masculino y femenino porque “todos los seres humanos tenemos ambas partes y no veo necesario esconder ninguna. En la tienda tenemos diferentes estilos, apostamos por marcas unisex y seleccionamos prendas que pueden servir para ambos sexos porque todo depende de cómo se combinen”. Lo sexy está en la actitud.

Por otro lado, la libertad es la esencia de la ropa neutra. Libertad tanto en la concepción de la prenda en sí, que quede desencorsetada del prejuicio “hombre” o “mujer”, como en la relación entre el consumidor y el espacio retail. Es decir, que no haya nada que condicione la elección del comprador, de manera que el único parámetro que influya en la decisión final sea si gusta o no la ropa, o el accesorio, en cuestión.

Este fue, por ejemplo, uno de los grandes retos para la innovadora sección de Agender de Selfridges: liberar el entorno de las estrategias de marketing que guían al consumidor en su compra. ¡Ni siquiera las dependientas deberían interferir con su opinión! Para ello, el equipo del centro comercial contrató a Faye Toogood, un diseñador de interiores en cuyo currículum resaltan marcas como Kenzo, Hermès o Alexander McQueen. “Logré convencer a Selfridges que al enmarcar todos sus productos en un lienzo blanco, se elimina el merchandising visual, la marca y el sentido demográfico en términos de género”, explica, consiguiendo así su objetivo último, “que la gente se adentre en un espacio neutral”. Los maniquís mismos, por ejemplo, son estatuas que, a su vez, están desprovistas de referencias sexuales, no son ni hombres ni mujeres, sino siluetas genderless.

Esta oda a la neutralidad y a lo asexual es la repercusión en el mundo de la moda de cómo “las personas de diferentes edades y en todos los mercados están construyendo sus identidades más libremente. Como resultado, los patrones de consumo ya no se definen por segmentos demográficos ‘tradicionales’ como la edad, género, ubicación, ingresos, situación familiar…” según un informe elaborado por Trendwatching.com.

Lo genderless, por lo tanto, no surge de la nada. ¿Recuerdas cuando, por eso del 2008, Katie Holmes se enfundó los vaqueros de su marido y llenó las revistas de moda de conjeturas y exclamaciones de sorpresa? Ahora, los boyfriend jeans son un básico en todas las secciones de tejanos. Por no hablar de la cantidad de mujeres que llevan años escapándose a la sección masculina para buscar un jersey o una sudadera para ellas. O Jaden Smith vistiendo falda frente a ejércitos de flashes. Con el adjetivo “genderless”, esta tendencia en crecimiento se consolida y encuentra su hueco particular en el diccionario de la moda.

El gran interrogante que se plantea ahora es si la moda neutra llega para quedarse o no es más que un capricho pasajero de los diseñadores, estilistas y fashionistas. Los expertos consultados en el tema parecen coincidir en que el fenómeno genderless se irá asentando cada vez más en la industria. “Es el futuro. Las líneas se continuarán difuminando y habrá menos diferencias entre colecciones”, afirma la jefe de compras de Luisa Via Roma, Monica Pascarella. “Incluso el aspecto físico de hombres y mujeres se está volviendo más parecido: muy delgados, cejas gruesas, apenas hay maquillaje…”, añade la especialista.

Zara Ungendered / AG Jeans Spring 2016 / Fotos: Zara, AG Jeans

Zara Ungendered / AG Jeans Spring 2016 / Fotos: Zara, AG Jeans

Se podrá estar más o menos de acuerdo con la visión de Pascarella, pero, sea lo que sea que aguarde el futuro en relación al fenómeno genderless, las grandes marcas y diseñadores se están sumando al carro. Zara ha introducido una nueva línea de ropa unisex, bautizada como Zara Ungendered, que cuenta con ocho prendas no poco polémicas. David Delfín también ha apostado por experimentar en el campo de la moda neutra con la colección “Inferno”, cuya musa es Bimba Bosé. Givenchy o Rick Owens son algunos de los diseñadores que han abanderado el estilo sin sexo… Todos ellos admirados con la idea de confluir lo femenino y lo masculino en uno, logrando así, la libertad de la oda sin sexo.

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